Weather in March varies – a few days warm and sunny, a few chilly and rainy. When the latter, a welcome refuge is a hammam, a combination of massage and steam baths slathered in oils ranging from savon noir (black soap) made from an African tree, to olive and coconut oils, to a sugar and honey mixture to cocoa paste. One included a fish pedicure. About 40-50 of these little buggers on each foot were sucking dead skin cells, resulting in a mild tickling sensation. Too bad they couldn't apply nail polish.