Slovenia
MAP - August, 2006 - text below

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Better-than-average graffiti in a Koper tunnel

koper_graffiti

koper_graffiti.jpg

The train ride down the western border was recommended as a scenic bonus. It was through the mountains, but entailed three stops: an hour's layover in Nova Gorica, a 12-minute change at Sezana and what would have been a two-hour layover in Divaca. However, some of us from the train clued into the bus at this point, thinking it would leave sooner. It was supposed to come within a half hour, but was over an hour. In any case, we took it. The train fare was 2001 tolars all the way Bled to Koper; however, from Divaca to Koper was an additional 1000 tolars (only $5.50, but still...). The time went quickly, as four of us gathered around a glass at the station...an Australian guy living in London who works with problem kids in an alternative school environment, an Australian woman travel agent living in Oslo, and a British law student who just finished his studies. I met other interesting people. One woman, about 30 I would guess, was returning to her homeland, New Zealand, via Russia and Asia...on her own...with a packback. Another Canadian couple had a lot of info from their trip in Croatia...like there still are land mines from the Milosovic ethnic cleansing era, so don't get out of your car or walk around unless the area is certified clear.

Finally got to Koper, which expectedly (according to guide books) is the pits; it's an industrial, container port. My theory was that it would be easier to get a room here, versus Piran, which is small and reputedly overcrowded in summer; it would be a base from which to take day trips. I started having serious doubts about the sagacity of my decision while walking in circles schlepping my backpack trying to find the hotel nearest the bus station. Another instance trying to find caves the next day illustrates the trouble I had understanding Slovenian signage.

Finally finding the Bio Hotel—although slightly over my envisioned limit to pay for a room (30 euros; this one was 38; rooms can range from 100+ euros to 15-euro hostel rates)—I was so sweaty and tired I took it thankfully. The restaurant turned out to be an oasis in the midst of ugly urban sprawl, and the night manager let me use his computer to check my email. This made up for the fact that the TV had no English channels. Anxiety from not having a place to room before arrival could have been avoided, had I not run out of prepaid phone time. Usual practice was to book a place and go to it in a taxi, but recharging phone time proved to be an insurmountable task, given I was not in the center of any major city.